NOVEMBER 2010                                    Click on (most) images for a larger view
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Converting another piece of framing lumber into a subtle piece of art. Functional art but art nonetheless.
       
It is a beam over the kitchen nook to support the hanging light over the table.
       
Hanging an old door requires fine measurement and adjustment of the hinges to balance the gaps. This being a Dutch door made it even more precarious and the fact that the top was slightly smaller than the bottom just added spice. :-)))
       
Long screws hidden underneath the hinges insure secure attachment to the framing members in the door frame Refinishing the door.
       
With the Dutch Door almost complete
its time to turn our attention to other tasks.
Wiring for the internet connections and speaker hookups.    
       
Using strapping to compensate for variations in the floor joists in an attempt to level the ceiling.
Next time we will use engineered joists instead of 2 x 10s.
       
Before we can start on the front door we need to build the landing. Raising and leveling the threshold to meet the landing.
       

After we confirm the landing height calculation to make sure the first step on the stair is the right height we focus on the second fixed parameter, the ducting that needs to be installed between the landing joists.

       
2x6 joists on 2x4 sleepers are glued together to prevent creaking and careful measurement allows us to fit it into place.
       

The P-2000 under the sheathing makes the floor a little spongy so we preload the framing with a pry bar before attaching it to the wall studs.

   
       

Gluing tongue and groove is tricky if you want a perfect fit. Since we had walls to but to it was not possible to do a clean trim with the skill saw so we had to cut exactly to size. Marking from the bottom is unreliable. Better to measure the overhang exactly and then measuring the amount to be cut off from the top.

       
       
It's hard to keep the pencil snug better to measure and mark the exact amount to cut for a perfect fit
       

With the landing complete we turned our attention to some more framing in the stairwell

   
       
       
       
       

When we did the little wall between the stairwell and the guest room it was the same as a gable end only upside down. Because it needed to be much more accurate because it was on display as it were we mocked it up in place. Top plate nailed to joists and end stud nailed to post we determined the exact length of the "Hypotamoose". From there it was easy to calculate the rest.

       

Confident that we are done with the platform on the southern roof we dismantle it for the last time. These were the sloped shoes that protected the metal roof and created a level platform on the 3/12 pitch.

   
       
       
air flowing up the stairwell mixed air in between air flowing down the stairs no drafts at the window
       

This is the first winter when the house is more or less tight. So as the snow fell outside we were keen to monitor the convection currents inside to see if our airflow planning was working. All proved as expected!

horizontal flow aloft     snow outside.
       

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